3-0 reached in the post count for this two-table build. Getting there, I think, with the side table....
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A few pics to share today. I spent the first while at the shop this morning completing the housed multiple mortise and tenon joinery between the drawer front and sides, and drawer rear wall and sides. Once the parts had been (dry-) fitted up, it was time to see how it all assembled.
This is the basic configuration of parts prior to assembly -the rear wall is joined to the sides, and the runners are mounted on the floor pan:
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The sides then slide onto the runners along their hammerhead sliding tenons:
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The sides and rear panel assembly now more or less slid all the way to the front:
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Now the front panel can be fitted, these are housed multiple mortise and tenon:
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Almost home as the front tongue on the floor pan engages the dado on the inside face of the front panel:
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Done:
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A closer look at the through tenons on the front- the mortises are yet to be flared for the wedges which will lock the tenons in place:
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The join between the rear wall and a side - here I have partially flared the mortise walls just to facilitate fitting up:
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These tenons are way long at the moment, however they still clear the surrounding frame without issue, so nothing to deal with immediately.
Under view of the drawer:
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A closer look at the sliding hammerhead connection between side wall and runner:
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Another view:
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At this point the drawer could be just wedged into place in the cabinet, a bit too tight for sliding operation, but it enabled me to see how the fit of the front panel looked to the surrounding frame members now that the drawer was together:
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Another view:
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As mentioned in the previous post, I was targeting a 0.01"~0.02" gap between the bottom of the drawer front and top surface of the stretcher, and on the left side I was sitting at 0.016":
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In case these decimals are giving you fits, note that 1/64" = 0.015625"
The other side was a hair tighter as 0.015":
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So, just around the target clearance I was looking for. I'll give the top edge of the drawer rather more room, though with a quartersawn drawer front i would be surprised if more than a 1/32" (0.03125"/0.76mm) gap would be needed. The sides of the drawer can run clearances of 1/64" each I would imagine.
A look at the back of the drawer nestled in among the wear strips:
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The middle of the drawer is fixed to the rear wall using an elongated expansion slot with a wide-head machine screw:
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I will extend the slot a bit more yet, but this will do for the moment. This is a fairly standard way of keeping the drawer from sagging in the middle and allowing it to move with seasonal shifts in relative humidity.
A closer look - this fastener is generally used on knock-down furniture - I thought its bronze patina was reasonably close in color to the bubinga and the wide head means no washer is needed and it gives ample support:
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A couple more pics of the underside of the drawer just for the heck of it:
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I then proceeded to fit the vertical wear strips to the support rails with some countersunk #6-32 stainless Allen head screws:
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The drawer fit is still a little on the tight side, however I'll leave final fitting and adjustment of the drawer until after the cabinet is assembled and all the pegs are knocked in.
One more detail to be fitted were the drawer stops. I forgot about these altogether yesterday when I mounted the horizontal wear strips, however the screw location was exactly the same so no big deal. In the above picture you can just see the shallow dado that has been cut in the end section of the horizontal wear strip, and below, the wooden stop is placed into that dado, the stop itself having a shallow tongue on the underside:
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These are fastened by 1/4"-20 stainless button head cap screws, also Allen head:
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I detest Phillips head and slotted screws, and would have ideally placed stainless Torx screws, but they are not so readily available so I went with Allen head instead.
The screw slot in the stop is elongated to allow for up to 1/8" of fore-aft adjustment:
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One more look:
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The idea is that with the rear panel removed, it would be easy to make adjustments to the fit and placement of the drawer, including the stops.
It was good to end the week by bringing the drawer to a close, so to speak. That leaves just one more piece of construction on this side table, namely the demountable frame and panel assembly which fits to the rear of the piece. I'll be at the shop tomorrow working on it so we'll see how far along we get.
Thanks for visiting the Carpentry Way.
---------
A few pics to share today. I spent the first while at the shop this morning completing the housed multiple mortise and tenon joinery between the drawer front and sides, and drawer rear wall and sides. Once the parts had been (dry-) fitted up, it was time to see how it all assembled.
This is the basic configuration of parts prior to assembly -the rear wall is joined to the sides, and the runners are mounted on the floor pan:
The sides then slide onto the runners along their hammerhead sliding tenons:
The sides and rear panel assembly now more or less slid all the way to the front:
Now the front panel can be fitted, these are housed multiple mortise and tenon:
Almost home as the front tongue on the floor pan engages the dado on the inside face of the front panel:
Done:
A closer look at the through tenons on the front- the mortises are yet to be flared for the wedges which will lock the tenons in place:
The join between the rear wall and a side - here I have partially flared the mortise walls just to facilitate fitting up:
These tenons are way long at the moment, however they still clear the surrounding frame without issue, so nothing to deal with immediately.
Under view of the drawer:
A closer look at the sliding hammerhead connection between side wall and runner:
Another view:
At this point the drawer could be just wedged into place in the cabinet, a bit too tight for sliding operation, but it enabled me to see how the fit of the front panel looked to the surrounding frame members now that the drawer was together:
Another view:
As mentioned in the previous post, I was targeting a 0.01"~0.02" gap between the bottom of the drawer front and top surface of the stretcher, and on the left side I was sitting at 0.016":
In case these decimals are giving you fits, note that 1/64" = 0.015625"
The other side was a hair tighter as 0.015":
So, just around the target clearance I was looking for. I'll give the top edge of the drawer rather more room, though with a quartersawn drawer front i would be surprised if more than a 1/32" (0.03125"/0.76mm) gap would be needed. The sides of the drawer can run clearances of 1/64" each I would imagine.
A look at the back of the drawer nestled in among the wear strips:
The middle of the drawer is fixed to the rear wall using an elongated expansion slot with a wide-head machine screw:
I will extend the slot a bit more yet, but this will do for the moment. This is a fairly standard way of keeping the drawer from sagging in the middle and allowing it to move with seasonal shifts in relative humidity.
A closer look - this fastener is generally used on knock-down furniture - I thought its bronze patina was reasonably close in color to the bubinga and the wide head means no washer is needed and it gives ample support:
A couple more pics of the underside of the drawer just for the heck of it:
I then proceeded to fit the vertical wear strips to the support rails with some countersunk #6-32 stainless Allen head screws:
The drawer fit is still a little on the tight side, however I'll leave final fitting and adjustment of the drawer until after the cabinet is assembled and all the pegs are knocked in.
One more detail to be fitted were the drawer stops. I forgot about these altogether yesterday when I mounted the horizontal wear strips, however the screw location was exactly the same so no big deal. In the above picture you can just see the shallow dado that has been cut in the end section of the horizontal wear strip, and below, the wooden stop is placed into that dado, the stop itself having a shallow tongue on the underside:
These are fastened by 1/4"-20 stainless button head cap screws, also Allen head:
I detest Phillips head and slotted screws, and would have ideally placed stainless Torx screws, but they are not so readily available so I went with Allen head instead.
The screw slot in the stop is elongated to allow for up to 1/8" of fore-aft adjustment:
One more look:
The idea is that with the rear panel removed, it would be easy to make adjustments to the fit and placement of the drawer, including the stops.
It was good to end the week by bringing the drawer to a close, so to speak. That leaves just one more piece of construction on this side table, namely the demountable frame and panel assembly which fits to the rear of the piece. I'll be at the shop tomorrow working on it so we'll see how far along we get.
Thanks for visiting the Carpentry Way.